- #Ofna dm1 electric upgrade
- #Ofna dm1 electric registration
- #Ofna dm1 electric pro
- #Ofna dm1 electric free
#Ofna dm1 electric registration
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#Ofna dm1 electric free
Please click here to Join now.īy joining our free community you will have access to post topics, create your own image gallery to share with everyone, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free. A guest will not be able to post questions or view pictures and videos. You are currently viewing our forum as a "guest". OSE is a tight knit community of like minded rc boating enthusiasts who value "on topic" and clean discussions. Welcome to The OffshoreElectrics (OSE) RC Electric Boating Forum! Or to start viewing/reading the forum without having to register, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Otherwise the activation email may go in your spam box. : Important, Please make sure to add to your safe senders email list. To post questions and to view pictures, you will have to register by clicking here register They're easy to swap at the track, so try both.Link above. It all depends on the weight of the other components on the car. The balance should be fine with the battery only on one side, but you can add a little weight where needed to make it perfect. That should give you a top speed of around 33mph, which is a good place to start.
Use the large plastic spur, which is probably the stock 49t, and the 13t pinion to start out with. The big pinions (30t, 35t, 40t) and the small spurs (25t, 30t) are for speed runs, not for racing. Another friend with dm1 electric use yellow springs and told me to change the red one asap. What about the springs you use? I have stock red an optional white for front.
#Ofna dm1 electric pro
I will go on 4 or 5 cells with 2000kv motor, but woundering is the ballance okay with just one battery ot one side? A friend of mine got dm1 pro el conversion and use battery try on left and right side protector. I have 2 very smal, 25t and 30t and one big plastic - maybe is the stock one. I can use mod1 pinions from my other models if I need.
#Ofna dm1 electric upgrade
You can also purchase the upgrade kit for the pivot ball rear. Use the standard hubs on the front, put +2mm or +1mm for better rear grip. The oval car has better shock mount but you will need to replace the offset hubs on the right side, but this is easy. I would agree on the gear boxes, they are tuff. Lastly, the Late Model has both fron and rear pivot ball suspension, which can be tightened to remove the play, and bring the rear toe alignment closer to 0 degrees. Also, the motor mount can be modded easily to accept a 1:1 gearing, and there's more room for larger 82mm+ motors. The main reason I would choose the GTP-2e( or Late Model) is because of the better designed gearboxes, the availability of option parts and the price. Especially considering that a crash at 70+ mph would destroy a carbon fiber chassis. That being said, my opinion is that the GTP-2e(or even better the OFNA Late Model) is the best for speed runs, and there would be no need to put a carbon fiber chassis on it. When you set a car up for speed runs, it's pretty hard to drive it around for any period of time without smoking the electronics. I'm not sure if the GTP2e will be sufficient and can then use the cash saved to upgrade the stock chassis to a CF chassis. Speed runs and general car park driving (I already have a RC8.2e and SC8e for bashing).
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